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HI CLASSMATES,
THE LAST TIME I WROTE TO YOU I SAID THAT I WOULD NOT WRITE AGAIN UNTIL SOMETHING EXCITING HAPPENED TO ME HERE IN THE SOCIETY ISLAND WHERE TAHITI IS. I AM WRITING TO TELL YOU ABOUT ALL THE EXCITEMENT.
AT THE TOP OF THE LIST.......MY SON AND 7 YEAR OLD GRANDSON JOINED US FOR 2 WEEKS ON THE BOAT. IT DOESN'T GET ANY BETTER THAN THAT. I HAD THE TIME OF MY LIFE AND I THINK THAT 7 YEAR OLD BOYS ARE THE JEWELS OF THE EARTH.
WE WERE IN PAPEETE, TAHITI FOR ONE WEEK WHERE WE RENTED A CAR AND DROVE AROUND THE ISLAND IN SEARCH OF BIG SURF FOR MY SON AND LITTLE SURF FOR MY GRANDSON. WE FOUND BOTH.
MY SON TAUGHT ME HOW TO USE A BOOGIE BOARD AND FOR THE SECOND MOST EXCITING EVENT TO TELL YOU ABOUT, I CAUGHT A GIGANTIC WAVE WHICH I THOUGHT WAS GOING TO THROW ME ON THE REEF BUT DIDN'T AND GAVE ME A THRILL OF A RIDE.
THIRD. WHILE SNORKELING WITH MY GRANDSON WE SAW A STONE FISH IN ABOUT 4 FEET OF WATER. A STONE FISH CAN KILL YOU IF THEY SHOOT YOU WITH ONE OF THEIR STINGERS AND IF YOU ARE NOT TREATED BY A DOCTOR. A DIVEMASTER TOLD ME THAT THERE WAS A 40 YEAR OLD DENTIST WHO STEPPED ON ONE AND THOUGHT HE COULD TREAT THE WOUND HIMSELF AND HE DIED. THE STONE FISH CAN CAMOUFLAGE HIMSELF TO LOOK JUST LIKE THE STONES WHERE HE HANGS OUT AND IT IS EASY TO MISS SPOTTING THEM. THEY SAY TO ALWAYS SLIDE YOUR FEET WHEN WALKING IN SHALLOW WATER TO PREVENT STEPPING ON ONE.
THE FOURTH EXCITING THING THAT HAPPENED TO ME WAS WHEN I WAS SCUBA DIVING AND A BEAUTIFUL TRIGGER FISH CAME SWIMMING BY. IT IS A VERY COLORFUL FISH WITH UNUSUAL MARKINGS. I WAS IN ABOUT 40 FEET OF WATER AND I PUT MY KNEES ON THE SANDY BOTTOM TO HOLD MYSELF IN PLACE TO GET A GOOD LOOK AT THIS FISH. THE DIVE MASTER TOLD ME THAT EVIDENTLY I PUT MY KNEES ON HER EGGS BECAUSE SHE CAME AT ME FULL SPEED AHEAD FROM ABOUT 10 FEET AWAY AND TOOK A BITE AT MY KNEE. LUCKILY I WEAR A FULL LENGTH WET SUIT WITH REINFORCED KNEES AND HER BITE DIDN'T EVEN GO THROUGH MY SUIT. SHE JUST SURPRISED ME AND MADE ME LAUGH UNDER WATER. HAVE ANY OF YOU EVER LAUGHED UNDER WATER?
THAT'S IT UNTIL SOMETHING ELSE EXCITING HAPPENS. HOPE YOU ARE ALL HAVING A WONDERFUL SPRING.
JAN BRADBURY
March 19, 2004
HELLO CLASSMATES,
I TOLD YOU THAT I WOULD NOT WRITE AGAIN UNTIL SOMETHING EXCITING HAPPENED TO ME. THE FOLLOWING MAY NOT BE EXCITING FOR YOU BUT I AM ECSTATIC OVER IT.
WE HAD THE MOST AMAZING DIVE YESTERDAY. WE SAW MILLIONS OF SCHOOL FISH BUT THE BEST PART WAS THE GENTLE GIANT. HE IS A NAPOLEON FISH OR NAPOLEON WRASSE, GIANT LABRID OR MARA. I WONDER IF YOU COULD GO ON THE WEB AND SEE A PICTURE OF HIM. HE WAS ABOUT 4 FEET LONG AND 3 FEET FROM FOREHEAD TO BELLY. HE HAS A BIG FOREHEAD. HE HAS GREAT BIG LIPS AND ONE TOOTH SHOWING. HE HAS MORE TEETH IN THE BACK THAT CAN'T BE SEEN UNLESS THE DIVEMASTER OPENS HIS MOUTH TO SHOW YOU. HE FEEDS ON SHELL FISH SO THE ONE TOOTH IS FOR OPENING I GUESS, AND THE OTHERS FOR GRINDING. IN THE BOOK IT SAYS THEY CAN WEIGH 180 LBS. OUR DIVEMASTER THINKS THIS ONE IS PROBABLY 10 YEARS OLD AND FULL GROWN. NAPOLEON LIKED US. HE JUST HUNG OUT WITH US AND SOMETIMES HE AND I WOULD MEET EYE TO EYE WITH 6 INCHES IN BETWEEN. I TOUCHED HIM AND HE WAS SO SOFT AND SMOOTH. I LATER FOUND OUT THAT WE SHOULD ONLY TOUCH AROUND HIS MOUTH BECAUSE HE CAN GET INFECTIONS FROM HUMAN TOUCH. HE HAD SOME SCARS ON HIS SIDE. HE IS A BEAUTIFUL TURQUOISE BLUE WITH DARKER GREEN FINS. I WOULD SAY THAT UP TO NOW HE IS THE BEST THING I HAVE EVER SEEN UNDER THE WATER.
I JUST COMPLETED FILLING IN THE LAST PAGE OF MY LOG. I HAVE TAKEN 98 DIVES AND I AM JUST BEGINNING.
JAN BRADBURY
March 15, 2004
DEAR CLASSMATES,
WE SAW A WATERSPOUT YESTERDAY. IT WAS TRAVELING ALONG THE COAST OF TAHAA WHICH A SMALL ISLAND RIGHT NEXT DOOR TO RAIATEA. IT WAS IN THE LAGOON WHERE WE ARE. EVERYONE CAME OUT AND WERE POINTING AND LOOKING AT IT LIKE AND MAKING A LOT OF COMMOTION. FROM WHERE WE ARE IT IS HARD TO TELL HOW BIG IT WAS BUT WE GUESS THAT THE DIAMETER OF THE CIRCLE THAT WAS HITTING THE WATER WAS AT LEAST AS BIG AS OUR BOAT, PERHAPS TWICE AS BIG. THEN IT HAD A THIN FUNNEL CURVING UP 100s OF FEET INTO THE BLACK CLOUDS ABOVE IT. IT LOOKED JUST LIKE THE TORNADOES WE HAVE SEEN ON TV. HALF OF THE SKY WAS BRIGHT BLUE AND THERE WAS HARDLY ANY WIND. WE WONDER WHAT WOULD HAPPEN IF ONE OF THOSE THINGS HIT OUR BOAT. PROBABLY JUST TEAR IT TO SHREDS. PRETTY EXCITING, OUR FIRST WATERSPOUT AND WE HOPE OUR LAST.
OUR BOAT WENT INTO THE WATER FRIDAY MORNING. IT IS WONDERFUL NOT TO CLIMB UP AND DOWN THE LADDER ALL THE TIME. IT IS ALSO WONDERFUL TO BE ABLE TO USE THE HEADS. WE COULDN'T RUN THE ENGINE, GENERATOR OR ANY OF THE 3 ACs UNTIL THE BOAT WAS IN THE WATER AND TRUE TO FORM EACH ONE HAD SOMETHING THAT HAD TO BE FIXED. LEE HAS BEEN WORKING VERY HARD FIXING. I AM STILL CLEANING AND PUTTING AWAY STUFF. WE ALWAYS HAVE TOO MUCH STUFF. I TOOK THE DINGHY AROUND THIS MORNING AND CLEANED THE SIDES OF THE BOAT AND SHE LOOKS PRETTY DARN NICE WITH THE NEW WATERLINE.
WE ARE LOVING THIS PART OF THE WORLD. THE PEOPLE ARE SO FRIENDLY AND THE LIFE STYLE IS NICE AND CASUAL. WE FEEL VERY COMFORTABLE HERE. THIS IS THE FIRST PLACE IN 9 YEARS WHERE WE HAVE BEEN THAT WE DON'T HAVE TO LOCK OUR DINGHY TO THE DOCK WHEN WE LEAVE IT.
I WILL ONLY WRITE IF SOMETHING EXCITING HAPPENS. LETS HOPE IT ISN'T TOO EXCITING!
NANA (GOODBYE IN TAHITIAN) ,
JAN
March 9, 2004
Subject: LAND SAILING IN FRENCH POLYNESIA
THE CONTINUATION OF OUR TAHITI CRUISE. LAST YEAR WAS AN ADVENTURE OF SAILING 6000 MILES IN 60 DAYS. WE HAD 4 TO 6 PEOPLE CREWING FOR US. IT WAS AN ACCOMPLISHMENT.
THIS YEAR WE GOT HERE IN THE BIG BIRD. WE PLAN TO MAKE THIS SEASON A PLEASURE CRUISE. JUST THE 2 OF US SLOWLY SAIL IN AND OUT AMONG THE SOCIETY ISLANDS IN WHICH TAHITI IS INCLUDED.
WRONG FOR THE PLEASURE PART. OUR BOAT IS STILL IN THE DRY DOCK HIGH AND DRY ON A CRADLE. WE ARE LIVING ABOARD WHICH MEANS THAT WE CANNOT USE THE HEADS FOR OBVIOUS REASONS. WE HAVE TO CLIMB UP AND DOWN A 12 FOOT LADDER TO BOARD AND DISEMBARK . IN THE MORNINGS WE ARE WITH A "CHAMBER POT" (MADE OUT OF A 1 GAL. PLASTIC WATER JUG) IN TOW . THERE IS A RESTROOM NEAR THE OFFICE WHICH WE ARE WELCOME TO USE BUT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT? NO THANKS.
WHEN WE ARRIVED THE BOAT HAD BRAND NEW BOTTOM PAINT BUT THE WATER LINE LOOKED LIKE IT HAD ACNE. BARNACLE BILL HAD LEFT POCK MARKS ON THE TOPSIDES AND WE DECIDED THAT IT SHOULD BE REFINISHED AND PAINTED. WE ARRIVED IN IN RAIATEA 19 DAYS AGO AND OUR BOTTOM HAS NOT SEEN WATER YET.
THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE GUY WHOSE NAME IS CAESAR IS A PERFECTIONIST. HE SANDS AND THEN HE FARES (FILLS THE HOLES) AND THEN HE SANDS AND FARES AND SANDS. THEN HE PUTS ON PRIMER AND SANDS. IT RAINS ABOUT EVERY 10 MINUTES FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES. WHEN IT RAINS CAESAR GOES SURFING.
WE HAVE TWO NAVY BLUE STRIPES AND TWO WHITE STRIPES AT THE WATER LINE. CAESAR HAS TAPED THEM AND HAS APPLIED ALL THE BLUE PAINT. NEXT COMES THE WHITE STRIPES. IF IT TAKES HIM 19 DAYS TO FINISH THE WHITE STRIPES WE MAY ABANDON SHIP. THE 2 BEST PARTS OF THIS STORY IS THAT WE ARE NOT PAYING HIM BY THE HOUR BUT BY THE JOB AND THE OTHER PART IS THAT WE WILL HAVE THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WATERLINE NOT ONLY THE PACIFIC BUT IN THE WHOLE WORLD. NONE COULD BE FINER.
WE HAVE NOT SEEN THE LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL SO WE DON'T HAVE A CLUE AS TO WHEN THE BOAT WILL GO IN THE WATER BUT WE ARE HOPING FOR THE END OF THIS WEEK. YA RIGHT!
WE HAVE ONLY MET ONE AMERICAN SINCE WE ARRIVED (other than those who come by cruise ship for the day and shop for jewelry) THIS GUY IS FROM SAN FRANCISCO AND TALKS LIKE HE IS THE ONLY GUY WHO HAS EVER CROSSED THE PACIFIC. HE KNOWS EVERYTHING AND WANTS YOU TO KNOW THAT HE KNOWS EVERYTHING. YOU ALL KNOW THE TYPE. WE TRY TO KEEP OUR DISTANCE.
LEE HAS BEEN LISTENING TO FRENCH LANGUAGE TAPES AND HE GETS US AROUND. I AM TRYING TO PICK UP A FEW TAHITIAN WORDS WHICH BRINGS OUT A BIG SMILE FROM THE NATIVES.
WE HAVE BEEN SCUBA DIVING TWICE AND THE FIRST TIME I COULDN'T CLEAR MY RIGHT EAR SO I HAD TO WAIT IN THE BOAT FOR THE OTHER DIVERS TO RETURN. I HAD A COLD. LAST WEEK WE HAD A BEAUTIFUL DIVE AND SWAM WITH 2 BLACK TIPPED SHARKS. THE FISH IN THE PACIFIC ARE DIFFERENT THAN THOSE IN THE CARIBBEAN. WE HAVE TO START OVER LEARNING THEIR NAMES.
STAY TUNED AND I WILL WRITE WHEN WE ARE FINALLY IN THE WATER. IF YOU DON'T HEAR FROM ME YOU CAN ASSUME THAT WE ARE STILL HIGH AND DRY.
A SPECIAL HI TO AND LOTS OF LOVE TO J.C. SCOTT WHO CALLED ME JUST BEFORE WE LEFT HOME.
ALSO, A SPECIAL HI TO CAROLYN AND THANKS FOR WRITING. WE WOULD LOVE TO CONTINUE TO GET MESSAGES FROM YOU.
NANA , (which means goodbye in Tahitian)
JAN BRADBURY
June 2, 2003
Subject: HELL NIGHT ON LA BOHEME
DEAR TERRY AND CLASSMATES,
I'M SURE THAT YOU HAVE HEARD RED SKY AT NIGHT, SAILOR'S DELIGHT. RED SKY IN MORNING, SAILOR'S TAKE WARNING.
IT IS TRUE ! YESTERDAY MORNING WE WOKE UP TO A BEAUTIFUL SUN RISE.. THE SKY WAS FIRE RED WITH LARGE HIGH THUNDER HEAD CLOUDS. THE WEATHER REPORT THAT WE GET FROM NOAA EACH MORNING SAID MORE OF THE SAME OF . NO WIND, CALM SEAS I TOOK A PHOTO OF THE WATER BECAUSE IT WAS SO GLASSY CALM THAT IT WAS AGAIN SURREAL AND EERIE. IT TURNED OUT TO BE THE CALM BEFORE THE STORM.
WE HAD JUST OVER 100 MORE MILES TO GO TO FINISH THIS LONG JOURNEY THAT HAS BEEN BLESSED WITH BAD LUCK. WE HAVE GONE OVER 6000 MILES SINCE LEAVING CURACAO, SAILED 50 DAYS AND HAVE HAD ONLY 3 GOOD DAYS OF WIND. THE REST OF THE TIME WE POWERED OR CREPT ALONG AT 3 KNOTS TO SAVE DIESEL FUEL IN CASE WE WOULD NEED IT LATER.
REMEMBER THAT I WROTE AND TOLD YOU THAT OUR HEAD STAY SNAPPED AND THE ROLLER FURLING AND THE SAIL WAS JUST HANGING BY THE HALYARD. THAT MEANT THAT WE COULD NOT USE THE GENEOA (BIG SAIL IN FRONT) SINCE THIS FAILURE. WE HAVE ANOTHER WIRE CALLED A JACK STAY THAT WE PUT FORWARD AND WE FLEW A SMALL JIB CALLED A WORKING JIB FOR MOST OF THIS JOURNEY. WE COULD NOT FLY OUR SPINNAKER FOR FEAR OF PULLING OVER THE MAST.
APPROX. 2PM YESTERDAY AFTERNOON THE WIND STARTED TO BLOW AND THE SEAS GREW BIGGER AND BIGGER. THE MEN WANTED TO GET THE JIB DOWN BUT WERE RELUCTANT TO GO FORWARD ON DECK BECAUSE IT WAS SO ROUGH. THEY FELT THAT THE WIND WOULD SURELY MODERATE. WE FURLED THE MAIN INTO THE MAST FROM THE COCKPIT WHICH LEFT US SAILING ON THE SMALL JIB ALONE. IT GETS DARK AROUND 6:30PM ALL YEAR HEAR BECAUSE WE ARE SO CLOSE TO THE EQUATOR. AFTER DARK THE WIND CONTINUED TO BUILD AND IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME TO PREPARE ANY KIND OF MEAL IN THE GALLEY. WE EACH HAD A PROTEIN BAR FOR DINNER. THE SEAS CONTINUED TO BUILD AND THE WIND INDICATOR TOLD US THAT THERE WAS 45 KNOTS OF APPARENT WIND WHICH WHEN YOU ARE SAILING DOWN WIND MAKES THE REAL WIND ABOUT 50 KNOTS. WE WERE SAILING ON THAT LITTLE WORKING JIB ALONE AND WE WERE SURFING WAVES AND GETTING UP TO 11 KNOTS OF SPEED. THE BOAT HAS NEVER GONE THAT FAST BEFORE.
WHAT WE WANTED TO DO WAS BRING DOWN THAT JIB AND SAIL ON A BARE POLE (MAST) BUT THE MEN COULD NOT GO OUT ON DECK EVEN WHEN WEARING HARNESSES. IT WAS JUST TOO DANGEROUS. IT WAS RAINING TORRENTS AND THE JIB SHEETS (ROPES) WERE SNAPPING BACK AND FORTH LIKE WHIPS AND WE DIDN'T WANT TO TIGHTEN THEM FOR FEAR OF PULLING THE MAST DOWN AND ALSO SAILING EVEN FASTER.
WE PUT THE HATCH BOARDS IN THE COMPANIONWAY OPENING AND CLOSED THE TOP. WITH ALL THE HATCHES AND PORT HOLES CLOSED AND THE COMPANIONWAY (ENTRY) CLOSED THE BOAT COULD TURN OVER AND IT WOULD NOT FILL WITH WATER AND SINK. IT WOULD RIGHT ITSELF AND BE A SEALED WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT. ONLY PROBLEM: WE WERE IN THE COCKPIT (THE PART OUTSIDE WHERE THE SKIPPER STEERS) AND WE WERE STRAPPED TO THE BOAT WITH OUR HARNESSES. IF THE BOAT WHERE TO TURN TURTLE (AS THEY CALL IT) WE WOULD HAVE GONE WITH IT BUT PROBABLY WOULD HAVE GOTTEN PRETTY BANGED UP. THAT WAS NOT OUR BIGGEST FEAR. WE FEARED THAT THE ROLLER FURLING WOULD BREAK AND FALL CAUSING MAJOR DAMAGE.
NOW KEEP IN MIND. WE HAVE BEEN SAILING SINCE MARCH 14TH AND WE HAVE HAD PRACTICALLY NO WIND AT ALL AND THIS DAY OF JUNE 1ST WAS OUR LAST DAY OF OUR JOURNEY AND OUR DESTINATION WAS ONLY 40 MILES AWAY. NOW WE HAD TO WORRY ABOUT GETTING THERE TOO SOON BECAUSE WE DON'T WANT TO COME INTO A STRANGE HARBOR IN THE DARK. WE HAD NO WAY TO SLOW THE BOAT DOWN SO WE SAILED AWAY FROM OUR DESTINATION. THIS STORM LASTED FOR APPROX. 12 HOURS AND THE MEN GOT ONLY CAT NAPS IN THE COCKPIT WHILE I WENT BELOW, LOCKED MYSELF IN AND WENT TO SLEEP.
BY DAYLIGHT WE HAD SAILED PAST THE ISLAND OF RAIATEA, (AN ISLAND OF TAHITI) BY ABOUT 40 MILES AND THE SEAS WERE STILL VERY HIGH BUT THE WIND HAD MODERATED TO ABOUT 12-15 KNOTS. WE TURNED INTO THE WIND AND THE GUYS WERE FINALLY ABLE TO TAKE THE JIB DOWN. WE POWERED BACK TOWARD RAIATEA.
I HAVE HEARD IT SAID THAT IF YOU DO SOMETHING SCARY EVERYDAY, YOU WILL BECOME YOUNGER. I DON'T KNOW IF BEING SCARED BRINGS OUT YOUR ADRENALIN AND MAKES YOU YOUNG OR IF YOUNG TYPE OLDSTERS WHO LIKE TO DO SCARY THINGS STAY YOUNGER. EITHER WAY AFTER LAST NIGHT THE THREE OF US SHOULD BE ABOUT 10 YEARS YOUNGER.
WE ARE NOW TIED TO A MOORING IN A QUIET LITTLE BAY WITH TROPICAL GREEN MOUNTAINS ON THREE SIDES. WE CAN SEE BORA BORA FROM HERE. ACTUALLY WE SAILED PAST BORA BORA THIS MORNING ON OUR WAY BACK TO RAIATEA AFTER SAILING PAST BOTH OF THEM IN THE DARK. THANK GOD FOR MODERN ELECTRICAL NAVIGATIONAL EQUIPMENT. WE HAD OUR RADAR ON ALMOST CONSTANTLY AND IT IS A DRAIN ON THE MAIN BATTERIES OF THE BOAT. THANK GOD FOR GPS WHICH TELLS US WHERE WE ARE.
WE HAVE A FEW SMALL LEAKS WHERE THE RIGGING IS ATTACHED TO THE DECK AND WE HAVE SOME WET BEDDING AND A FEW WET BOOKS. WE LOST OUR BIG AMERICAN FLAG THAT WE HAD ON A FLAG POLE OFF THE STERN. THE POLE SNAPPED AND IT AND THE FLAG WENT OVERBOARD. SO ALL IN ALL, WE WERE VERY LUCKY EVEN THOUGH WE HAVE FELT LIKE THIS CRUISE HAS BEEN RIDDLED WITH BAD LUCK, (ESPECIALLY WEATHER WISE). NOBODY WAS HURT. THE GUYS LOST A LOT OF SLEEP AND WE HAD TO SKIP OUR COCKTAIL HOUR AND DINNER BUT WE ARE THERE. WE ARE THERE WHERE WE WANTED TO BE.
SO THAT'S THE END OF THE STORY OF LA BOHEME SAILING TO TAHITI. LA BOHEME IS IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS WHERE TAHITI IS LOCATED AND SHE WILL BE OUT OF THE WATER FOR THE NEXT 6 MONTHS WHILE WE FLY HOME AND ENJOY SUMMER ON THE CHESAPEAKE BAY IN OUR TRAWLER. WE PLAN TO RETURN NEXT JANUARY TO CRUISE THE POLYNESIAN ISLANDS IN THIS AREA. IT WILL BE A SLOW LEISURELY CRUISE. WE HAVE PAID OUR DUES AND AS MY DAUGHTER HAS SAID WE HAVE EARNED OUR BRAGGING RIGHTS.
I HAVE ONLY SEEN MY BIO WEB PAGE ONCE. THAT WAS IN PANAMA CITY WHEN WE WENT TO AN INTERNET CAFE AND I WENT ON THE WEB. I AM EAGER TO BE AT HOME WITH MY OWN COMPUTER WHERE I CAN GO ON THE WEB FOR AS LONG AS I LIKE. WHEN I'M THERE I WANT TO READ MANY OF YOUR BIOGRAPHIES AND TRAVEL STORIES. WHAT I SAW OF MY WEB PAGE, WAS QUITE IMPRESSIVE AND IT WAS ALL DONE BY TERRY WARD. THANK YOU TERRY FOR PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER. I HAVE HEARD FROM MANY PEOPLE THAT YOU HAVE DONE A GREAT JOB.
SO UNTIL ANOTHER TIME.
CIAO, JAN BRADBURY DAVISSON ( I NEED TO LEARN THE POLYNESIAN WORD FOR GOODBYE INSTEAD OF USING ITALIAN)
May 30, 2003
Subject: CAUGHT IN A FISHNET IN PARADISE
DEAR CLASSMATES,
WE HAVE FOUND PARADISE......IT IS CALLED RANGIROA WHICH IS THE 2ND LARGEST ATOLL IN THE WORLD. I DON'T KNOW WHICH IS FIRST.. IT IS VERY PRIMITIVE WITH HARDLY A VILLAGE BUT IT HAS A VERY UPSCALE HOTEL RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE ANCHORAGE. AS WE ENTERED THE CHANNEL CALLED TIPUTA PASS, I WAS UP ON THE BOW SPRIT WATCHING FOR CORAL HEADS. INSTEAD OF SEEING CORAL HEADS I COULD LOOK DOWN AND SEE THE SANDY BOTTOM WITH SOME DARK SPOTS AT 60 FEET. I KNOW BECAUSE I WOULD ASK LEE TO LOOK AT THE DEPTH METER AND HE KEPT CALLING THE DEPTH TO ME. IMAGINE SEEING INTO THE WATER 60 FEET.
WE DID A DRIFT DIVE YESTERDAY THROUGH THAT INLET. WE WERE WITH DIVE MASTERS WHO KNOW THE AREA. THEY TOOK US OUT INTO THE OCEAN JUST WHEN THE TIDE WAS COMING IN AND DROPPED US OFF OUTSIDE TIPUTA PASS. WE WENT DOWN ABOUT 100 FEET AND THE CURRENT WAS SO STRONG COMING INTO THE LAGOON THAT WE WERE DRIFTING AT ABOUT 3 KNOTS AND PRETTY MUCH OUT OF CONTROL. MY FACE MASK WAS VIBRATING. WE SAW ABOUT 15 BLACK TIPPED SHARKS WHO COULD CARE LESS ABOUT US. WE ALSO SAW A FEW REEF FISH THAT WE HAD NEVER SEEN BEFORE BECAUSE THE FISH IN THE PACIFIC ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE FISH IN THE CARIBBEAN. I WILL HAVE TO GET A NEW FISH BOOK SO I WILL KNOW WHAT WE SAW.
I WAS GOING ALONG QUITE NICELY ALTHOUGH AT THE END OF THE GROUP OF ABOUT 10 DIVERS AND ALL OF A SUDDEN I FOUND MYSELF ALONE AND IN A FISH TRAP LIKE WE HAVE IN THE CHESEAPEAK BAY. YOU KNOW, LOTS OF STICKS COMING OUT OF THE WATER AND CHICKEN WIRE STRUNG FROM STICK TO STICK TO TRAP THE FISH. LUCKILY IT WAS QUITE SHALLOW AND WE HAD BEEN GRADUALLY WORKING OUR WAY TO THE SURFACE WHEN I HIT THIS TRAP. I WAS ALMOST OUT OF AIR BUT I HAD ENOUGH TO INFLAT MY BCD SO THAT I SURFACED AND SAW THE DIVE BOAT ABOUT A MILE AWAY. THERE WAS A FISHERMAN WORKING THE TRAPS AND HE SAW WHAT HAD HAPPENED SO HE AND I COULD STAND IN THE SHALLOW WATER AND WAVE OUR ARMS TOWARD THE DIVE BOAT SO THAT THEY WOULD KNOW WHERE I WAS.
ACCORDING TO LEE, I SCARED EVERYBODY WHEN I DIDN'T SHOW UP WITH THE REST OF THE DIVERS AND THEY DIDN'T SEE ME. THE FISHERMAN AND I WAVED OUR ARMS AND WAITED FOR APPROX. 15 MIN. THE DIVE BOAT KEPT ZIG ZAGGING BACK AND FORTH WHERE THE OTHER DIVERS HAD SURFACED. FINALLY THEY SAW ME AND CAME TO GET ME. I WAS FINE AND I FOUND OUT THAT THE DIVEMASTERS WERE VERY ANXIOUS ALMOST TO A STATE OF PANIC. LEE WAS UPSET ALSO. THEY DON'T LIKE TO LOSE CUSTOMERS AND WIVES.
THIS MORNING WE DID ANOTHER DIVE AT 7:30 AM. THIS TIME THEY TOOK US OUT IN THE OCEAN AND UPTHE COAST WHERE THEY DROPPED US OFF. WE SWAM BACK TOWARD THE INLET ALONG A REEF AND SAW MANY REEF FISH BUT NOTHING SPECTACULAR. THE REEF WAS KILLED IN THE 80s BY EL NINO AND IT IS JUST STARTING TO COME BACK. THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF FISH HOWEVER, AND THEY ARE VERY TAME. THEY WILL COME RIGHT UP TO YOUR FACE MASK AND STARE YOU IN THE EYE. IT WAS A GOOD DIVE BUT NOTHING AS WONDERFUL AS THE ONE YESTERDAY.
WE ARE NOW ON OUR WAY TO RAIATEA. WE HAVE 240 MILES TO GO AND WE LEFT ABOUT 11:AM SO SHOULD ARRIVE IN 3 DAYS AT ABOUT THE SAME TIME.
WHEN WE WEREN'T DIVING WE WERE EATING AT THE FANCY RESTAURANT IN THE HOTEL. WE WENT TO A BUFFET ONE NIGHT WHICH IS BY FAR THE BEST BUFFET I HAVE EVER BEEN TO AND DURING DINNER THEY HAD TAHITIANS DANCING FOR US. THERE WAS A LITTLE BOY ABOUT 4 OUT THERE WITH 3 OF THE YOUNG MEN DANCING AND HE STOLE THE SHOW. I BELIEVE THAT THEY PROBABLY ALL START DANCING AT THAT AGE BECAUSE OF THE WAY THEY MOVE THE HIPS.
UNTIL NEXT TIME.........CIAO, JAN
MAY 25th
DEAR CLASSMATES,
WE STOPPED AT NUKU HIVA FOR 1 DAY WHERE DAN ONE OF OUR CREWMAN LEFT US. BECAUSE WE ARE 2 WEEKS BEHIND SCHEDULE (DUE TO MECHANICAL FAILURES) HE HAD TO GET HOME.
NUKU HIVA DOESN'T HAVE A DINGHY DOCK SO WE HAD TO BEACH OUR DINGHY IN ORDER TO GO ASHORE. WE LOOKED AT THE BEACH IN THE AFTERNOON AND IT LOOKED DOABLE. WE WERE TO MEET DAN FOR DINNER AT A UPSCALE HOTEL RESTAURANT TO SAY OUR GOOD BYES. PAUL, LEE AND I GOT DRESSED IN LONG PANTS SO THAT THE NO-NOS (LITTLE BUGS THAT BITE THE HELL OUT YOU) WOULD NOT GET US. IT WAS DARK AND WE HEADED TOWARD THE BEACH WITH OUR TRUSTY FLASHLIGHT. A LARGE WAVE CAUGHT US AND HIT THE STERN OF THE DINGHY FILLING THE BOAT WITH WATER AND LANDING IT ON TO THE BEACH NEAR A TIED UP HORSE THAT WAS GRAZING. WE WERE ALL WET TO OUR KNEES BUT BEING THE GOODS PORTS THAT WE ARE, WE MET DAN FOR DINNER. WE ARRIVED AN HOUR LATE AND HE WAS EATING HIS DESSERT WHEN WE ARRIVED. WE HAD WALKED THROUGH A VERY DARK WOODED AREA, FOUND THE WRONG RESTAURANT. WE PERSEVERED AND FOUND DAN.
AFTER DINNER WE KNEW THAT WE COULD FIND OUR DINGHY BY LOOKING FOR A HORSE. IT WORKED. WE BAILED AND DRAINED THE DINGHY AND GOT BACK TO LA BOHEME WITH MUCH SAND IN OUR SHOES AND PANT CUFFS.
A FRIEND FROM A PRIOR ANCHORAGE IN CURACAO CAME BY IN HER DINGHY IN THE AFTERNOON OF OUR ARRIVAL TO TELL US THAT YOU COULDN'T GET FOOD AT THIS PLACE. NOT EVEN AN ONION. SHE SAID THAT THERE IS A LADY WHO COMES ONCE A WEEK AT 4 AM WITH PRODUCE FROM HER FARM . SHE IS SOLD OUT BY 5 AM AND THERE HAVE BEEN FIGHTS AMONG THE LOCALS OVER FOOD. THE FRENCH SOCIALISTIC SYSTEM DOESN'T SEEM TO BE WORKING VERY WELL.
WE LEFT THE VERY NEXT MORNING WITH A VERY BAD TASTE IN OUR MOUTHS ABOUT THE MARQUISES. THEY ARE NOT BOATER FRIENDLY.
WE ARE CURRENTLY ON OUR WAY TO RANGIROA WHICH IS THE SECOND LARGEST ATOLL IN THE WORLD. I DON'T KNOW WHERE THE LARGEST IS. RANGIROA IS NOT PART OF THE MARQUISES BUT IS STILL IN FRENCH POLYNESIA. THERE ARE 4 DIVE SHOPS THERE SO THE WATER MUST BE CLEAR AND THERE MUST BE SCUBA DIVING WHICH WE WILL DO. RANGIROA IS 571 MILES FROM NUKU HIVA AND WE ARE NOW 3 DAYS OUT AND HAVE 303 MORE MILES TO GO. WE HAVE POWERED ALMOST THE WHOLE WAY BUT THIS MORNING WE SAILED FOR A FEW HOURS BEFORE THE WIND DIED. WHERE OR WHERE ARE THE TRADE WINDS? IT MUST BE EL NINO AGAIN. WHEN EVER THE WEATHER IS UNUSUAL (AND IT ALWAYS IS) WE BLAME IT ON EL NINO. LEE, ASKS, "WHEN DO WE SAY, GEE THE WEATHER SURE IS USUAL TODAY".
I HAVE HAD REQUESTS TO WRITE MORE ABOUT THE PERSONALITIES AND DYNAMICS OF THE CREW. I HAVE TO WRITE VERY GINGERLY BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO HURT ANYONE. IT IS EASIER TO SAY POSITIVE THINGS ABOUT PEOPLE. ALL OUR CREW MEMBERS HAVE BEEN FUN TO BE WITH. THEY ALL LIKE COCKTAIL HOUR AND WE JOKE AROUND A LOT. WE HAVE DONE A LOT OF LAUGHING. DAN HAS A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR. PAUL AS I HAVE SAID BEFORE, IS A GENIUS AT FIXING THINGS. HE IS ALSO VERY EASY TO BE WITH. HE IS A LOYAL FRIEND AND WILL BE WITH US UNTIL THE END. HE DOESN'T SEEM TO MIND ALL THE BAD CONDITIONS THAT WE HAVE HAD TO DEAL WITH. I CAN'T SAY ENOUGH GOOD THINGS ABOUT PAUL. HE IS THE IDEAL CREWMAN. LINDA AND SKIP WHERE PERFECT CREW ALSO. THEY CAME ABOARD AND PITCHED RIGHT IN HELPING WITH THE WORK THAT NEEDED TO BE DONE BEFORE WE LEFT CURACAO. THEY DIDN'T HAVE TO BE TOLD WHAT TO DO THEY JUST DID IT. THEY HAVE A BOAT OF THEIR OWN AND THEY KNOW WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE. PAUL, LINDA AND SKIP DID A PERFECT JOB WITH THE LINE HANDLING IN THE P CANAL. I CAN'T SAY ENOUGH GOOD ABOUT THEM AND WE HATED TO SEE THEM LEAVE. THEY HAVE A PLACE IN KEY WEST THAT THEY HAD COMMITTED TO AND WE KNEW THAT THEY WOULD BE GETTING OFF IN PANAMA CITY.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO PICK YOUR CREW CAREFULLY. CHOOSE PEOPLE WHO HAVE DONE A LOT OF SAILING. CHOOSE PEOPLE THAT YOU KNOW YOU CAN COUNT ON FOR EMERGENCIES AND DEVIATIONS. IT IS IMPORTANT FOR YOUR CREW TO KNOW YOU AS WELL AS FOR YOU TO KNOW THEM. THERE SHOULD BE NO SURPRISES. JOANNE AND DAN ARE NOT OCEAN SAILORS AND THIS WAS A NEW EXPERIENCE FOR THEM. THEY LEARNED A LOT AND SO DID WE.
WE HAD A SEA BIRD LAND ON OUR BOAT LAST EVENING. HE HAD A LONG SHARP BEAK, HAWK LIKE EYES AND WEBBED FEET. WHAT WAS HE DOING SO FAR OUT IN THE OCEAN? HE PARKED HIMSELF ON OUR BOAT FOR A FREE RIDE AND STAYED MANY HOURS. THIS MORNING WE FOUND HIM DEAD ON THE DECK. HE OBVIOUSLY WAS SICK AND COULDN'T FLY AND THOUGHT OUR BOAT LOOKED LIKE A GOOD PLACE TO REST. WE FELT VERY SAD.
UNTIL NEXT TIME.
CIAO, JAN BRADBURY
MAY 21ST WHAT AM I DOING HERE?
WE HAVE RUN INTO MORE TROUBLE WITH THE BOAT AND WE HAVE BEEN DRIVING AROUND THIS ONE HORSE TOWN TRYING TO FIND PARTS. WE ALSO HAVE BEEN PROVISIONING AND I CAN'T EVEN BEGIN TO TELL YOU HOW DIFFICULT IT IS.
THE STORY:
WE WERE FIRST ANCHORED IN BEHIND A BREAKWATER WHERE IT WAS ROLLY BUT ACCEPTABLE. THE WATER IN THERE IS MURKY BECAUSE OF SILT AND ABOUT 20 OR 30 BOATS FLUSHING THEIR HEADS. WE NEED TO MAKE WATER BECAUSE OUR SUPPLY IS GETTING LOW.
WE MOVED OUT OF THE MARINA AND ESSENTIALLY ANCHORED IN THE OCEAN. GRANTED, IT IS BETWEEN 2 POINTS OF LAND BUT WE ARE IN THE OCEAN. WE PUT DOWN TWO LARGE ANCHORS OFF THE BOW AND WE ARE SECURE BUT MORE ROLLY THAN INSIDE.
WE GO TO TURN ON THE GENERATOR TO MAKE WATER AND IT FAILS. IT RAN FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND THEN STOPPED. PAUL WHO IS A GENIUS STARTED TAKING IT APART PIECE BY PIECE AND LOOKING AT THE SPECS AND DECIDED THAT IT WAS A FAULTY RECTIFIER OR FAULTY DIODES. THE'RE PARTS THAT CAN BE HAD FROM RADIO SHACK FOR LESS THAN $10. IN A ONE HORSE TOWN THERE AIN'T NO RADIO SHACK!
WE STARTED BY GOING AROUND IN THE DINGHY ASKING PEOPLE ON OTHER BOATS IF THEY MAY HAVE THESE PARTS AS PART OF THEIR SPARE PARTS COLLECTION. ALL BOATERS HAVE A SPARE PARTS COLLECTION. WE HAD NO LUCK BUT GOT LOTS OF SYMPATHY. THEN WE WENT TO SHORE AND ASKED AROUND FOR A MECHANIC. A GUY TOLD US TO FOLLOW HIM SO WE DID AND HE LED US AROUND BEHIND SEVERAL HOUSES (HUTS, SHACKS) ON A DIRT ROAD FULL OF POT HOLES. EVERYONE HERE DRIVES 4 WHEEL DRIVE. WHEN I SAY EVERYONE I MEAN WE HAVE NOT SEEN ONE SINGLE REGULAR CAR. IF YOU THINK YOU'VE SEEN POT HOLES YOU AIN'T SEEN NOTHING YET.
SO WE GET TO THE MECHANICS HOUSE AND HE IS NOT HOME. WE ASK THE NEXT PERSON WHERE TO GET PARTS AND HE SENDS US TO THE ARMY. YES, THAT'S RIGHT THE ARMY. THERE IS A SMALL MILITARY FACILITY NEARBY AND A GUY IN UNIFORM CAME OUT AND SAID HE DIDN'T KNOW ANYTHING. THEN WE WENT TO THE MAYOR'S OFFICE AND HIS SECRETARY, MARY, TOLD US TO GO TO THE ELECTRIC CO.
THEY LET PAUL INTO THE COMMAND CENTER OF THE COMMUNITY ELECTRICAL FACILITY. AND THEY LED HIM TO A DESK WHERE HE HAD FREE REIN. HE RIFLED THROUGH THE DRAWERS WITH HIS VOLT METER AND HE FOUND 3 GOOD ONES.
AFTER THAT WE DECIDED TO DO OUR PROVISIONING WHILE WE WERE IN TOWN. THERE ARE 5 SMALL GROCERIES AND YOU HAVE TO GO TO ALL 5 BECAUSE NONE OF THEM HAVE EVERYTHING WE HAD ON OUR LIST. IN BETWEEN ALL THIS CHASING AROUND WE CAUGHT BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER. WE GOT BACK TO THE BOAT AFTER DARK AND IT WAS ROLLIER THAN EVER AND LEE ALMOST GOT KILLED TRYING TO PUT THE DINGHY ON IT'S DAVITS. THE DINGHY WOULD ROLL ONE WAY AND LA BOHEME WOULD ROLL THE OTHER WAY AND THE TWO OF THEM WOULD COME CRASHING TOGETHER. HE FINALLY SUCCEEDED AFTER USING MANY CUSS WORDS. LEE, USE CUSS WORDS?
I FORGOT TO TELL YOU THAT WE SPENT ABOUT AN HOUR IN THE GAUGIN MUSEUM WHICH IS CLOSED ON SUNDAYS SO IF WE WERE TO SEE IT, IT HAD TO BE YESTERDAY.
I STARTED USING THE SEA WATER TO WASH A FEW THINGS AND WHEN THE WATER HAD TIME TO SETTLE WE COULD SEE IT HAD SILT ALMOST AS BAD AS INSIDE THE MARINA. THIS MEANS THAT WE CAN'T MAKE WATER HERE EVEN IF WE DO HAVE THE GENERATOR FIXED BECAUSE THE SILT WILL CLOG UP THE FILTER TO THE WATER MAKER.
IT IS TUES. MORNING AND PAUL IS SITTING HERE SOLDERING DIODES TOGETHER.
WHEN WE WERE SHOPPING FOR PROVISIONS WE BOUGHT 12 - 5 LITRE BOTTLES OF DRINKING WATER. WE WON'T DIE.
DO YOU KNOW THE SONG , I WANT TO GET OUT OF THIS PLACE? THAT TUNE KEEPS RUNNING THROUGH MY HEAD.
THEY DO HAVE WATER AT THE GAS DOCK BUT IT IS NOT POTABLE MEANING IT IS CONTAMINATED AND NOBODY CAN TELL US WITH WHAT. WE DON'T WANT TO POLLUTE OUR WATER TANKS BUY FILLING THEM WITH THIS WATER.
NUKA HIVA, THE ISLAND THAT WE PLAN TO GO TO NEXT IS ONLY 80 MILES AWAY BUT THEY ALSO HAVE POLLUTED WATER. IT WOULD BE A STOPPING PLACE TO GET A NIGHTS SLEEP BEFORE HEADING TO RANGIROA WHICH IS ABOUT 500 MILES AWAY. NOW THAT'S A PLACE THAT WE HAVE HEARD GOOD THINGS ABOUT. DIVE SHOP, CLEAN WATER, HOTELS, GROCERIES. WHAT MORE COULD WE ASK FOR.
WE WERE JUST BOARDED BY 4 DARLING FRENCH CUSTOM GUYS ALL WEARING UNIFORMS. THEY WANTED TO SEE OUR PASSPORTS AND KNOW WHERE WE CAME FROM AND WHERE WE ARE GOING. I THINK THEY ARE IN CHARGE OF ILLICIT DRUG CONTROL AND I HAD MY COLUMBIAN T-SHIRT ON. THEY DIDN'T EVEN ASK TO GO BELOW BUT STAYED IN THE COCKPIT AND FILLED OUT PAPERS. I TOOK THEIR PICTURES BECAUSE THEY ARE SO CUTE.
SEVERAL HOURS LATER:
WE HAVE EVERYTHING FIXED AND WE ARE ON OUR WAY TO NUKA HIVA.
MORE LATER. CIAO , JAN
MAY 16TH ATAUNO, HIVA OA
WE HAVE HAD OUR FEET ON SOLID GROUND. WE HAVE EATEN IN 3 DIFFERENT RESTAURANTS AND LIFE IS GOOD. I HAVE ORDERED 2 SALADS AS THE COMPLETE MEAL. I CAN'T TELL YOU HOW WONDERFUL IT IS TO EAT FRESH VEGETABLES. I ALSO HAD MY FIRST ICE CREAM IN 27 DAYS. IT WAS ONLY PLAIN OLD VANILLA BECAUSE THAT'S ALL THEY HAD BUT IT TASTED LIKE HEAVEN.
THE ONLY PROBLEM IS: ATAUNO IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE PLACE WE HAVE EVER BEEN. THEY GET $4.OO A GAL. FOR DIESEL. A BEER IS $4.00 IN THE GROCERY I BOUGHT ABOUT 10 ITEMS TODAY AT THE GROCERY STORE AND IT CAME TO $125, AND IT WAS MOSTLY CANNED VEGETABLES. THERE IS A TREMENDOUS TAX ON EVERYTHING. WE ARE SUPPORTING THE FRENCH SOCIALIST SYSTEM. MEDICAL CARE HERE IS FREE.
WE HAVE TO TAKE THE HEAD STAY AND GENOA OFF THE BOAT TOMORROW AND SEE IF IT CAN BE FIXED BY US. THERE WOULD BE NO ONE HERE WHO CAN DO IT. THIS TOWN IS SO SMALL THERE ARE 3 RESTAURANTS, A COUPLE OF GROCERY STORES, A SO CALLED HARDWARE STORE, A POLICE DEPT. AND THAT'S ABOUT IT. THE GROCERY STORES DON'T SELL PRODUCE. THERE IS A WOMAN WHO IS OUT AT 8 AM SELLING PRODUCE AND IF YOU DON'T GET THERE BY 9 AM FORGET IT. THE TOWN IS A GOOD WALK FROM THE MARINA. WE RENTED A CAR WHICH THEY WANTED $200 A DAY FOR. WE BARGAINED BY SAYING THAT WE WANTED IT FOR 5 DAYS SO THEY GAVE IT TO US FOR $375. IT IS A SAMARI WITH A BROKEN WINDSHIELD. THE DOOR KNOB ON THE PASSENGER'S SIDE IS BROKEN AND THE DOOR MUST BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE. IT HAS ONLY 2 SEATS AND THEN A SMALL METAL AREA IN THE BACK COVERED WITH CANVAS WHERE 2 OF US RIDE. THE AIR CONDITIONING DOESN'T WORK.
WE RENTED IT BECAUSE WE WANTED TO DO SOME EXPLORING OF THE ISLAND. THERE ARE SUPPOSED TO BE SOME PRIMITIVE STONE STRUCTURES WHERE THEY DID HUMAN SACRIFICING. ALSO PAUL GAUGIN IS BURIED HERE. THERE IS ALSO A GAUGIN MUSEUM. THE ISLAND ITSELF IS BEAUTIFUL. VERY GREEN AND LUSH AND REMINDS ME SOMEWHAT OF MACHU PECCHU BECAUSE OF IT'S HIGH PEAKS. OF COURSE THEY AREN'T AT THE ALTITUDE OF MP BUT THEY HAVE THAT LOOK ABOUT THEM. I WILL TAKE SOME PHOTOS TO SHOW YOU.
THERE IS A PRETTY STIFF SURGE IN THIS MARINA AND THE BOATS ARE VERY ROLLY. WE ARE SO USED TO ROLLING BACK AND FORTH THAT IT DOESN'T MATTER BUT IT IS VERY HARD ON OUR DINGHY WHEN WE TIE IT UP TO THE CONCRETE PIER THAT IS PROVIDED. LUCKILY WE HAVE A CANVAS COVER ON THE DINGHY BUT IT GOT TORN BY THE CONCRETE YESTERDAY. BETTER THE COVER THAN THE DINGHY. THE COVER CAN BE MENDED.
WE HAVE TO STAY HERE UNTIL A FED EX PACKAGE COMES FROM HOME. IT CONTAINS OUR PLANE TICKETS, SOME MEDICATION FOR 2 OF US AND A NEW VISA CARD. IT WILL BE A MIRACLE IF IT COMES ON MONDAY WHICH WAS PROMISED.
WE HAVE READ AND BEEN TOLD THAT ALL OF FRENCH POLYNESIA IS JUST AS EXPENSIVE AS THIS PLACE IS. WE KNEW ABOUT IT BEFORE WE LEFT BUT WE DIDN'T THINK IT COULD BE THIS BAD.
THE NEXT PLACE WHERE WE PLAN TO STOP IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE A DIVE SHOP AND THE DIVING IS SUPPOSED TO BE GOOD. THE WATER IN THIS MARINA LOOKS VERY MUCH LIKE THE PACIFIC OFF SO. CALIF. THERE IS A RIVER THAT RUNS INTO IT AND I GUESS THERE IS A LOT OF SILT ALONG WITH HEADS FLUSHING INTO IT. I WOULDN'T SWIM IN IT AND WE ARE NOT GOING TO MAKE WATER WITH IT.
UNTIL NEXT TIME. CIAO, JAN
Wed, 14 May 2003 15:38:19 -0400
DAY 26 AND WE HAVE FOUND LAND. WE ARE POWERING ALONG THE NORTH COAST OF ONE OF 9 MARQUESAS ISLANDS. IT IS VOLCANIC AND VERY RUGGED. WE STILL HAVE SEVERAL HOURS BEFORE WE WILL COME TO THE ANCHORAGE BUT TO LOOK OUT AND SEE LAND IS AN UNBELIEVABLE HIGH.
MY SON, TED ASKED ME IF WHEN WE SPOTTED LAND WILL I PEE ALL OVER THE DECK THE WAY OUR CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER, LORENZO, USED TO DO WHEN HE SPOTTED LAND.
IT HAS RAINED LIGHTLY 2 TIMES SINCE WE LEFT MARYLAND JAN 10TH. RIGHT THIS MOMENT IT IS POURING LIKE A MID SUMMER RAIN IN MARYLAND. IT IS WONDERFUL BECAUSE IT IS WASHING ALL THE SALT OFF THE BOAT AND CLEANING THE DECKS.
I'LL KEEP YOU ALL POSTED AS TO WHAT IT IS LIKE HERE.
CIAO, JAN (I HAVE GOT TO LEARN THE WORD GOODBYE IN POLYNESIAN) IF ANY OF YOU KNOW IT I WOULD LIKE YOU TO SEND IT TO ME.
Sun, 11 May 2003 16:20:56 -0400
DEAR TERRY,
I'M BEGINNING TO THINK THAT YOU DON'T LOVE ME ANYMORE. I HAVEN'T HEARD FROM YOU FOR SO LONG. I THINK YOU MUST THINK I FELL OVER THE EDGE OF THE EARTH.
I THINK YOU ARE MAD AT ME BECAUSE I SAID I WOULD LIKE YOUR BEAUTIFUL FISH ALIVE BETTER THAN DEAD. SO, I'M A DIVER. WHAT CAN I SAY.
WE HAVE BEEN OUT OF WIND SINCE THE LAST TIME I WROTE. WE HAVE NO GENOA AND NO WIND SO WE HAVE BEEN POWERING ALMOST ALL THE WAY. GOOD THING WE GET GOOD FUEL MILEAGE.
THIS IS DAY 22 AND WE HAVE 270 MORE MILES TO GO WHICH TO ME SOUNDS LIKE A PIECE OF CAKE AFTER WHAT WE HAVE BEEN THROUGH. I HAVE RUN THROUGH THE GAMBIT OF EMOTIONS IN THE LAST 22 DAYS FROM HYSTERICALLY CRYING TO HYSTERICALLY LAUGHING. I WOULD SAY THAT THE VERY WORST PART IS THAT WE CAN'T GET ANY EXERCISE THAT AMOUNTS TO ANYTHING. I AM USED TO WALKING WITH A NEIGHBOR FOR AN HOUR EVERY MORNING WHEN I AM HOME. I CAN'T DO MY YOGA BECAUSE IT INVOLVES BALANCE AND THERE IS NO WAY ONE CAN BALANCE WHEN YOUR WORLD IS ROCKING BACK AND FORTH, BACK AND FORTH.
WE ARE STARTING TO RUN OUT OF FOOD BUT WE HAVE STUFF TO EAT UNTIL WE GET TO THE MARQUESES. WE HAVE HAD NO FRESH FRUITS OR VEGGIES SINCE THE END OF THE 1ST WEEK. WE HAVE ENOUGH RICE TO FEED CHINA. WE HAVE LOTS OF CEREAL AND BOXED MILK. LUCKILY, THE GUYS MADE SURE THAT WE HAVE PLENTY OF WINE BUT WE ARE OUT OF CERVESA. WE ARE SURVIVING. IF I HAD IT TO DO OVER AGAIN I WOULD HAVE SHOPPED QUITE DIFFERENTLY THAN I DID. MORE CANNED VEGGIES. MORE CANNED EVERYTHING.
I WAS LAMENTING TO MY DAUGHTER ABOUT HOW AWFUL IT HAS BEEN AND SHE SAID "MOM IT'S LIKE CHILD BIRTH. YOU'LL FORGET HOW AWFUL IT IS AND DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN." HER HUSBAND CAME BACK WITH "YA, BUT NOBODY GOES THROUGH CHILD BIRTH FOR A WHOLE MONTH".
YOU CAN POST THAT LAST MESSAGE THAT I WROTE. I CAN'T EVEN FIND IT IN MY FILE.
I ASKED MY DAUGHTER TO GO ON THE WEB TO THE MEMORIAL PAGE AND FIND BRUCE LOWNEY FOR ME AND SHE DID. SHE SAID IT DIDN'T SAY ANYTHING ABOUT HIM, ONLY A PHOTO. IF ANYBODY OUT THERE KNOWS WHAT HAPPENED OR HAVE A CONTACT TO HIS WIFE OR CHILDREN, I WOULD LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU.
SO TERRY, GET OUT FROM BEHIND YOUR FISHING POLE, LONG ENOUGH TO SEND ME AN E-MAIL. I MISS HEARING FROM YOU.
LOVE, JAN
HEY! Chill out, I love you.
When you get to an Internet cafe you will see that I put something on the web a couple of times a week about you and Lee. I stopped e-mailing the Class everytime I add something. Ever since one of our classmates complained that she had been through the Canal and didn't want to hear about it, I slowed down my notices.
Amy's plot maps are great.
I'll have this e-mail up within the hour.
terry
Thu, 01 May 2003 19:10:02 -0400
HI TERRY AND CLASSMATES,
WE HAD A LITTLE EXCITEMENT YESTERDAY THAT I WILL REPORT TO YOU. WHEN I WOKE UP YESTERDAY MORNING PAUL AND LEE WERE UP ON THE BOW IN THEIR HARNESSES TRYING TO GET THE GENOA DOWN BECAUSE THE HEAD STAY INSIDE THE ROLLER FURLING ROD HAD SNAPPED. THEY WERE GOING TO CUT AWAY THE ROD AND LET IT FALL IN THE WATER, SAIL AND ALL. THEY WERE GOING TO LET THE TURNING DRUM THAT IS UP ON THE BOW SWING FREE OVER THE WATER. THEN THEY WERE GOING TO LET THE HALYARD OUT AND LET THE WHOLE THING, SAIL AND ALL DROP INTO THE WATER. THEN THEY WERE GOING TO CUT IT LOOSE. WE WERE WORRIED THAT IF THAT BIG SAIL WAS IN THE WATER AND ATTACHED TO THE TOP OF THE MAST IT COULD PULL THE BOAT OVER. WE ALL PUT ON HARNESSES, BROUGHT THE EPRIBS OUT AND GOT THE HATCH BOARDS READY TO PUT IN THE COMPANIONWAY. WE CLOSED ALL THE PORTS AND HATCHES AND WE WERE READY IF THE BOAT DECIDED TO GO WITH THE JIB. I WAS A LITTLE CONCERNED ABOUT HOW WE WERE GOING TO CUT THE SURVIVAL LIFE RAFT FREE BECAUSE IT IS TIED SECURELY TO THE BOAT. I WAS AT THE WHEEL AND RUNNING THE ENGINE SO THAT I COULD CONTROL THE BOAT. WE HAD THE WIND BEHIND US AND WE WANTED TO KEEP IT THAT WAY. IT WAS BLOWING PRETTY HARD AND THE GENOA WAS UNCONTROLLABLE.
I SUGGESTED THAT WE TAKE A KNIFE AND CUT HOLES IN THE SAIL AND LET THE WIND GO THROUGH IT SO THAT IT WOULD LOSE SOME OF IT'S POWER BUT LEE DIDN'T LIKE THAT IDEA. WE WERE ALL READY TO MAKE THIS RADICAL MANEUVER OF DROPPING THE WHOLE SHOOTING MATCH IN TO THE WATER AND KISS IT GOODBYE, WHEN LEE DECIDED TO GIVE ONE MORE TRY TO WRAP THE JIB AROUND THE BROKEN ROD. THERE WAS ENOUGH TENSION THAT THE SAIL KIND OF WRAPPED AROUND ITSELF. THEREFORE, WE STILL HAVE THE SAIL AND IT IS TIED TO THE BROKEN ROD. WE ARE USING THE JACK STAY WHICH IS AN EXTRA HEAD STAY TO FLY THE WORKING JIB. THE GENOA WAS 135% AND THE WORKING JIB IS ONLY 110% SO WE HAVE LOST A LOT OF SAIL AREA. THEN ON TOP OF THAT THE WIND HAS MODERATED. WE ARE BARELY MAKING 4.5 KNOTS WHERE WE WERE GOING 6 AND 7 BEFORE THE BREAK. WE HAD PLANNED ON MAKING 150 A DAY AND ARRIVING IN THE MARQUESES IN 10 DAYS FROM THE HALF WAY MARK 2 DAYS AGO. NOW WE WILL BE LUCKY TO MAKE 100 KNOTS AND WE STILL HAVE 1270 MORE MILES TO GO. THAT MAKES IT 12 DAYS FROM TODAY WHERE IT WOULD HAVE BEEN 8 DAYS IF THINGS HADN'T BROKEN.
WE HAVE ENOUGH FOOD BUT NO FRESH FRUITS OR VEGETABLES. I HAVE 2 MORE BAGS OF FROZEN GREEN PEAS AND 2 CANS OF CORN AND ONLY 5 ONIONS LEFT. WE WON'T GO HUNGRY BUT WE WILL NOT BE EATING WELL BALANCED MEALS. I UNDERESTIMATED THE TIME IT WOULD TAKE US TO THE MARQUESES AND I UNDERESTIMATED THE AMOUNTS OF CANNED VEGETABLES TO BRING. I HAVE 8 CANS OF CHICKEN, 6 MORE CANS OF TUNA AND SOME CHICKEN OF THE SEA SALMON IN ALUMINUM BAGS. WE HAVE ENOUGH RICE TO FEED CHINA. WE ALSO HAVE FREEZE DRIED FOODS THAT WOULD FEED US FOR ABOUT 3 DAYS. THE THINGS I MISS MOST IS A GREAT BIG GREEN SALAD AND ICE CREAM.
SORRY ABOUT THE NAUTICAL LANGUAGE BUT I DON'T KNOW WHAT ELSE TO CALL THE STUFF THAT I AM DESCRIBING.
ALL FOR NOW. CIAO, JAN
Sat, 26 Apr 2003 20:53:26 -0400
HI TERRY, J.C., BONNIE, CAROL AND ALL OTHER CLASSMATES,
TERRY, I HOPE YOU HAD A GREAT FISHING TRIP AND CAUGHT LOTS OF FISH. WHAT KIND OF FISH ARE YOU FISHING FOR? I HAVE NOT WRITTEN TO YOU AND THE CLASS FOR SOMETIME. I GUESS IT HAVE WRITER'S BURNOUT BUT TODAY I AM WRITING EVEN THOUGH I HAVE DECIDED TO DO IT IN AN ABBREVIATED FORM.
FACTS:
WE LEFT THE GALAPAGOS ON 4/18 AT 1:30 PM. FOR THE FIRST 3 DAYS WE POWERED BECAUSE THERE WAS NO WIND. WE MADE APPROX. 100 MILES A DAY. DAY 4 THE WIND STARTED TO BLOW ABOUT 12 TO 15 KNOTS OUR DISTANCE INCREASED TO 150 MILES A DAY.
THE WATER TEMP. IS 80 DEGREES WHICH CONFIRMS THAT WE ARE OUT OF THE HUMBOLT CURRENT AND INTO THE SOUTHERN EQUATORIAL CURRENT. WE JUST PASSED THE 2,000 MORE MILES TO GO MARK. WE DRANK A BEER TO CELEBRATE.
WE ARE 1/3 OF THE WAY TO THE MARQUESES.
WE HAVE HAD FLYING FISH ALL AROUND US FOR DAYS. WE DON'T KNOW IF WE SHOULD CALL THEM A FLOCK OR A SCHOOL. WE HAVE HAD BOTH FLYING FISH AND SMALL WHITE SQUID FLY OUT OF THE WATER AND LANDING ON OUR BOAT. THEY DIE SHORTLY AFTER. LAST NIGHT WHILE I WAS DOING MY WATCH I STEPPED ON A DEAD SQUID WITH MY BAREFOOT. I COULDN'T SEE IT IN THE DARK AND I COULD NOT IMAGINE WHAT SLIMY THING I HAD STEPPED ON. WE ARE ALWAYS BAREFOOT ON THE BOAT.
ALONG WITH FLYING FISH, COME DOLPHIN FISH OR MAHI MAHI WHO LIKE TO EAT FLYING FISH. DAN CAUGHT 2 YESTERDAY THAT WERE ABOUT 16" LONG. WE COOKED THEM IN WINE AND SEASONING AND THEY WERE DELICIOUS. PROBLEM: WE DON'T KNOW HOW TO KILL THEM. LEE TOOK AFTER ONE WITH THE BOAT HOOK AND PAUL KILLED THE OTHER WITH A WINCH HANDLE BUT THERE WAS A LOT OF FLOPPING AROUND AND BOTH MAN AND FISH PUT UP A VERY GOOD FIGHT I CAN'T STAND TO SEE THEM SUFFER (THE FISH) SO I HIDE BELOW UNTIL THE VIOLENCE STOPS.. DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE A GOOD QUICK WAY OF KILLING THE FISH. WE HAVE TRIED HITTING THEM IN THE HEAD WITH A HAMMER BUT THEY ARE JUMPING ALL OVER THE PLACE AND IT IS HARD TO HIT THE HEAD. WE DON'T HAVE A GAFF HOOK SO IT IS TOUCH AND GO WHILE BRINGING THE FISH ABOARD.
WE WERE TOLD BY A FRIEND VIA E-MAIL THAT WITH LITTLE SQUID JUMPING ALL OVER YOUR BOAT THEY ARE TRYING TO GET AWAY FROM A GIANT SQUID. THIS GIANT SQUID IS SO LARGE, HE LIKES TO EAT PEOPLE AND WHEN HE IS FINISHED, HE USES THE BOAT'S MAST FOR A TOOTH PICK.
I MADE PEA SOUP IN MY PRESSURE COOKER FOR DINNER THE OTHER NIGHT AND ASKED WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PEE SOUP AND MASHED POTATOES? ANSWER: ANYONE CAN MASH POTATOES.
YOU CAN SEE THAT WE ARE GETTING A LITTLE PUNCH DRUNK FROM OUR CONFINING PREDICAMENT.
IT IS DAY 9 AND WE HAVE APPROX. 18 MORE DAYS TO GO JUST TO GET TO THE MARQUESES. THIS APPROXIMATION IS BASED ON OUR CURRENT SPEED OF 6.5 TO 7 KNOTS. EVERYTHING ON THE BOAT IS WORKING WHICH, IF YOU KNOW BOATS, NEVER HAPPENS. WE CONTINUE TO WONDER WHAT WILL BE THE FIRST THING TO MALFUNCTION. THERE ARE TOO MANY SYSTEMS HERE TO NOT HAVE ONE OF THEM GO. GOOD THING PAUL IS GOOD AT FIXING THINGS.
UNTIL NEXT TIME......CIAO, JAN
Sun, 20 Apr 2003 00:23:31 -0400
HI CLASSMATES,
WE LEFT PUERTO AYORO, SANTA CRUZ, GALAPAGOS YESTERDAY ABOUT 1PM AND WE HAVE POWERED OR FLOPPED AROUND WITH NO WIND FOR 28 HOURS. WE HAVE MADE 116 MILES DUE TO A CURRENT THAT IS WITH US. I AM REALLY GETTING TIRED OF NO WIND BUT OF COURSE, I WOULDN'T TRADE IT FOR TOO MUCH WIND.
FRIENDS OF OUR LAST CREW HAD BEEN TO NEW ZEALAND AND FOR SOME CRAZY REASON THEY THOUGHT WE WOULD LIKE TO SEE THEIR PHOTOS. WE HAVE NEVER MET THESE PEOPLE AND LEE SAID THAT IT WOULD LITERALLY TAKE A WHOLE DAY TO DOWNLOAD THEM. LUCKILY HE CUT IT OFF WHEN HE DID BUT NOT SOON ENOUGH. OUR "MAILBOX" GOT FULL AND WE MISSED ABOUT 3 DAYS OF MESSAGES. IT ONLY COSTS A $1.50 A MINUTE FOR US TO USE THIS SYSTEM AND TO PAY FOR IT WE WOULD HAVE TO SELL OUR BOAT. I DON'T THINK IT'S WORTH IT DO YOU? WE DON'T GET TO SEE WHO THE MESSAGES ARE FROM UNTIL THEY ARE HERE SO THERE IS NO PICK AND CHOOSE.
WE AREN'T EVEN AS FAR WEST AS LITTLE ROCK, ARK. OUR LAT/LONG IS 2 DEGREES 0 MIN. AND 92 DEGREES 8 MIN.
GOT TO GO COOK SOME GRUB FOR THE "BOYS" AS I CALL THEM. I'M GOING TO TRY TO MAKE RISOTTO IN MY PRESSURE COOKER. LAST NIGHT WE HAD TUNA ON TOAST WITH CANNED PEAS OR (SOS). MY MEALS ARE GETTING LESS AND LESS COMPLEX. WE HAVEN'T SEEN A DECENT HEAD OF LETTUCE SINCE LEAVING PANAMA CITY BUT WE DID GET SOME NICE TOMATOES IN PUERTO AYORO. AS YOU KNOW TOMATOES DON'T LAST VERY LONG.
I WILL WORK ON MY WAR MEMORIES TOMORROW. I HAD 2 WATCHES LAST NIGHT BECAUSE ONE OF OUR GUYS WASN'T FEELING WELL. WE THINK IT HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH HIM EATING SEVICHE FOR LUNCH 3 DAYS IN A ROW. WHEN I DO MY WATCHES I LISTEN TO BOOKS ON TAPE AND I AM CURRENTLY LISTENING TO BUSH AT WAR BY BOB WOODWARD. IT STARTS AT 9/11 AND GOES FROM THERE. I HAVEN'T GOTTEN FAR ENOUGH IN TO IT TO KNOW WHAT IT WILL SAY ABOUT THE IRAQ WAR.
I WANT TO WISH ALL OF YOU A GREAT EASTER AND I HOPE THE EASTER BUNNY IS GOOD TO YOU. ONE OF OUR CREW WILL BE UP FOR SUNRISE BUT THE SERVICE WILL BE MINIMAL.
CIAO, JAN
Sat, 12 Apr 2003 16:30:42 -0400
BECAUSE OF THE CURRENT WAR MANY OF US HAVE BEEN THINKING ABOUT PAST WARS AND WE TALK A LOT ABOUT WHAT WE REMEMBER OF THEM.
I WAS THINKING THAT BECAUSE SO MANY OF OUR CLASSMATES LIVED WITHIN A FEW MILES OF LOCKHEED DURING WWII AND LIKE MYSELF WOULD HAVE SOME INTERESTING THINGS TO SAY ABOUT WHAT WE REMEMBER EVEN THOUGH WE WERE JUST LITTLE KIDS. DON'T YOU THINK THAT WOULD MAKE A GOOD WEB PAGE?
I WOULDN'T MIND BEING THE FIRST TO WRITE ABOUT WHAT I REMEMBER AND IT MAY JERK THE MEMORIES OF OTHERS AND THEY COULD ADD TO THE STORY.
LET ME KNOW IF THIS IS A GOOD IDEA OR NOT.
NOW TO SAILING:
WE LOST THE WATER PUMP ON THE ENGINE AGAIN SO WE CAN'T POWER AND THERE STILL IS NO WIND. SO WE ARE GHOSTING ALONG AT A ROARING 0.5 KNOT. WE AREN'T GOING TO BE EATING IN A RESTAURANT TONIGHT OR PROBABLY EVEN TOMORROW NIGHT ACCORDING TO THE WEATHER PREDICTION. WE HAVE 50 MORE MILES TO GO AND WE SHOULD MAKE 100 MILES A DAY WITH SOME WIND OR AN ENGINE. THE ONLY GOOD THING ABOUT THIS IS THAT IT IS VERY PLEASANT OUT HERE WITHOUT ANOTHER SOLE IN SIGHT AND THE WATER IS LIKE GLASS. WE ARE PLAYING MUSIC ON THE STEREO AND JOKING ABOUT OUR PREDICAMENT.
MORE LATER. LOVE, JAN
Fri, 11 Apr 2003 22:54:23 -0400
HI TERRY AND CLASSMATES,
YOU ARE CORRECT IN SAYING THAT JAN MUST BE GETTING BORED. I ONLY HAVE ABOUT 6 MORE WEEKS OF THIS AND I HOPE I CAN HOLD UP THROUGH IT ALL. MARGARITAS AT HAPPY HOUR HELP BUT 45 FEET OF SPACE IS GETTING SMALLER AND SMALLER.
WE JUST CROSSED OVER THE EQUATOR AND I MISSED THE WHOLE THING BECAUSE I WAS IN THE SHOWER. I ASKED THE CREW WHAT THEY SAW AND THEY SAID THERE WAS A DISTINCT BLACK LINE RUNNING FROM HORIZON TO HORIZON. NOW WE HAVE TO WATCH AND SEE IF THE WATER RUNS DOWN THE SINK BACKWARDS.
TO CAROL GRATSOS: TWO YEARS AGO LEE AND I FLEW FROM OUR BOAT IN VENEZUELA TO ECUADOR TO GO TO THE GALAPAGOS. WE WERE ONE A SMALL CRUISE SHIP OF 40 PEOPLE FOR A WEEK. YOU'RE RIGHT IT IS AN INCREDIBLE PLACE AND I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO RETURNING.
I PLAN TO BE IN A RESTAURANT FOR DINNER TOMORROW NIGHT. I WILL LET YOU KNOW IF THAT HAPPENS OR NOT.
TERRY, DID YOU RECEIVE THE CD WITH PHOTOS OF CREW AND OF OUR TRANSIT THROUGH THE CANAL? WE SENT IT HOME WITH THE LAST CREW WHO LEFT ON APR. 2. YOU SHOULD HAVE IT BY NOW.
MORE LATER. LOVE, JAN
Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:56:52 -0400
WE ARE GOING DIRECTLY TO THE GALAPAGOS AND FROM MY DAUGHTER AMY WE HAVE HEARD THAT THE PUMP WILL PROBABLY BE THERE BEFORE WE ARE.. ACTUALLY WE AREN'T DOING TOO BADLY. WE HAVE GONE 120 MILES IN THE LAST 24 HOURS AND WE HOPE TO ARRIVE IN THE GALAPAGOS ON SAT., WIND PERMITTING. WE ARE 0 DEGREES AND 56 MIN. FROM THE EQUATOR AND IT HAS GOTTEN COLDER AND COLDER AS WE APPROACH IT. WE ARE IN THE HUMBOLT CURRENT AND THE WATER TEMP HAS DROPPED TO 75 DEGREES. I AM GOING TO WEAR SWEAT PANTS TO DINNER TONIGHT IN THE COCKPIT.
IT HASN'T BEEN BAD WITH OUT THE ENGINE. WE JUST GO ALONG AT A SLOW BUT CONSISTENT SPEED AND WE MAKE PROGRESS. THE TEMP DOWN BELOW HAS BECOME QUITE PLEASANT AND IT IS QUIET ! AS YOU KNOW THERE IS NOTHING MORE SATISFYING THAN TURNING OFF THE ENGINE TO SAIL.
THE NEW CREW HAS BEEN INTERESTING. THEY DON'T KNOW HOW TO SAIL AND ARE ALWAYS PUTTING US IN IRONS. 2 NIGHTS AGO I WENT UP TO TAKE A WATCH AND THE BOAT WAS 180 DEGREES OFF COURSE WHICH OF COURSE HAD US GOING COMPLETELY IN THE WRONG DIRECTION. THE EXPLANATION THAT CAME WITH IT WAS, "THE WIND KEPT CHANGING".
I HAVE HEARD GOOD WAR NEWS THAT MAKES ME VERY HAPPY. ADIL, MY MUSLIM SON IN-LAW FROM MOROCCO IS QUOTED IN THEIR LOCAL PAPER AS SAYING "IT IS A JUST WAR AND THAT THE IRAQIS HAVE A KIND ENEMY". THAT MADE ME FEEL GOOD. I WASN'T SURE WHERE HE STOOD ON THIS ONE AND I WAS AFRAID TO ASK.
I DIDN'T TELL YOU THAT I HAVE A MUSLIM SON-IN-LAW. HE MARRIED MY YOUNGEST DAUGHTER LAST SUMMER. HE DOES RAMADAN AND DOES NOT TOUCH ALCOHOL BUT I LOVE HIM AND HE IS VERY FUNNY AND AS MUCH FUN TO BE WITH AS ANYONE WHO HAS HAD A COUPLE OF DRINKS. MY DAUGHTER STILL HAS A BEER OR 2 AND A GLASS OF WINE WITH DINNER. SHE DOES NOT TRY TO CHANGE HIM. HE HAS RECEIVED NO, ZILCH, NADA NEGATIVE RESPONSES FROM ANYONE ABOUT HIS RELIGION OR THAT HE IS AN ARAB, THANK GOD. HE MAKES MY DAUGHTER VERY HAPPY AND THAT IS WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO ME. HIS PROFESSION IS TRANSLATING IN COURTS AND IN MEDICAL FACILITIES. HE SPEAKS FLUENT ARABIC AND FRENCH.
GOT TO GO HIT THE PROVERBIAL BUNK, AS I HAVE A 2AM WATCH.
LOVE, JAN BRADBURY
Wed, 09 Apr 2003 01:26:34 -0400
IT WILL BE OK TO GIVE OUT OUR E-MAIL. I LIKE GETTING MESSAGES AND THEY ALL COME IN AND OUT AT THE SAME TIME AND THEY GO PRETTY FAST. JUST CAN'T DO DOWNLOADING AND PHOTOS.
IT IS SO HOT DOWN BELOW WHEN COOKING THAT IT IS UNBEARABLE. YESTERDAY WE STOPPED THE BOAT AND JUMPED INTO THE 85 DEGREE WATER AND WERE STUNG ALL OVER BY TINY LITTLE JELLY FISH THAT YOU CAN'T EVEN SEE. THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT THE ENGINE WAS OVER HEATING AND THE CREW DIAGNOSED IT AS THE WATER PUMP. THE BAD NEWS IS WE CAN NOT RUN THE ENGINE UNTIL WE GET A NEW PUMP AND THAT WON'T BE UNTIL WE GET TO ECUADOR. WE HAVE 373 MILES MORE TO GO TO GET THERE AND THE ESTIMATION IS THAT WE WILL ARRIVE AT BEST IN 3 DAYS AND AT WORST BY CHRISTMAS.
WE HAVE ORDERED THE NEW PUMP THROUGH MY DAUGHTER AND IT WILL BE A MIRACLE IF WE HOOK UP WITH IT IN THE GALAPAGOS BUT WHO KNOWS, SOMETIMES MIRACLES DO HAPPEN. I LOVE THE PART WHERE WE CAN'T RUN THE ENGINE. WE RUN THE GENERATOR AND THAT'S BAD ENOUGH BUT WE HAVE TO KEEP THE BATTERIES UP AND MAKE WATER. I JUST DID 3 LOADS OF LAUNDRY TODAY AND OUR WATER SUPPLY IS HOLDING UP VERY WELL.
THE MORALE STAYS GOOD AMONG THE CREW. NOBODY HAS THREATENED TO MUTINY BUT THE ONE OTHER FEMALE, JOANNE IS LUCKY ENOUGH TO GET OFF IN THE GALAPAGOS AND FLY HOME. SHE WORKS.
WE HAVE OUR LITTLE HAPPY HOUR EVERY EVENING BEFORE DINNER WHICH HELPS WITH THE MORAL. TONIGHT WE ARE HAVING MEAT LOAF THAT I MADE WEEKS AGO AND FROZE AND INSTANT MASHED POTATOES AND CANNED GREEN BEANS. YUMMY.
WE HAVE ABOUT 12 -15 KNOTS OF WIND AND CALM SEAS BUT IT IS RIGHT ON THE NOSE. ISN'T IT ALWAYS? THE BOAT IS HEALING QUITE A BIT AND THINGS ARE STILL FLYING AROUND. WE HIT SOME BIG WAVES LAST NIGHT AND THE HATCHES WERE CLOSED BUT NOT DOGGED AND WE GOT WET. I WAS FAST ASLEEP IN THE MAIN CABIN WHEN I GOT HIT WITH ABOUT A BUCKET LOAD OF WATER RIGHT IN THE FACE. WHAT A WAY TO WAKE UP.
MORE LATER. LOVE, JAN
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 22:35:50 -0500
LEE HAS SENT A CD WITH PHOTOS OF US TRANSITTING THE CANAL AND PHOTOS OF OUR CREW. I DON'T KNOW WHAT I CAN TELL YOU ABOUT THEM EXCEPT THEIR NAMES AND THAT THEY ARE NEIGHBORS OF OURS. THEY GOT OFF THE BOAT IN PANAMA CITY AND A NEW CREW GOT ON EXCEPT FOR THE ONE GUY, PAUL WHO IS GOING THE WHOLE WAY WITH US.
LINDA AND SKIP ARE NEIGHBORS AND THEY HAVE A 42 FOOT J BOAT. HE IS 55 AND ALREADY RETIRED BECAUSE HE STARTED 3 COMPANIES THAT WERE VERY SUCCESSFUL AND HE SOLD THEM FOR MEGA BUCKS. HE HAS A DOUBLE DEGREE FROM MIT IN ENGINEERING AND BUSINESS MANAGEMENT. LINDA HAS A MASTERS IN ACCOUNTING AND IS A CPA BUT DOES NOT WORK NOW. PAUL IS A RETIRED LAB TECHNICIAN FROM THE U OF MD AND CAN FIX ANYTHING WHICH IS A REAL BLESSING ON BOARD A BOAT. ALREADY HE HAS FIXED THE SINK PUMP, THE WATER MAKER, AND THE ENGINE BECAUSE IT WAS OVER HEATING. I HOPE THAT LEE LABLED THE PHOTOS SO THAT YOU KNOW WHO IS WHOM.
RIGHT NOW WE HAVE NO WIND AND WE ARE POWERING AND HAVE BEEN ALL DAY. IT IS HOTTER THAN HELL DOWN BELOW AND COOKING HAS BECOME A REAL BURDEN. TONIGHT WE HAD SALAD FOR DINNER. THE 5 DAY FORCAST IS FOR THE SAME DAMN THING SO I GUESS WE ARE MOTORING TO THE GALAPAGOS.
WE HAD A NICE SAIL YESTERDAY AND LAST NIGHT. THE WIND WAS BEHIND US AT ABOUT 12 KNOTS AND IT WAS PLEASANT.
I HAVE BEEN DOING WATCHES WITH OUR NEW CREW BECAUSE THEY DON'T HAVE THE KNOWLEDGE YET TO BE OUT THERE BY THEMSELVES. LAST NIGHT I HAD TO MAKE 2 JIBES AND THEY WOULD NEVER BE ABLE TO DO THAT ALONE. THEY ARE WORKING OUT VERY WELL, THO, BECAUSE THEY ARE BRIGHT, FUN PEOPLE WHO ARE EAGER TO LEARN. WE ARE STILL DOING A LOT OF LAUGHING JUST LIKE WE DID WITH THE LAST CREW.
DAN WAS A PHd STUDENT OF LEE'S FROM THE U OF MARYLAND. HE HAS A DEGREE IN ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING AND JOANNE, HIS LONG TIME GIRLFRIEND. HAS HER DEGREE IN SPEECH THERAPY AND IS THE ONLY ONE OF US THAT IS STILL WORKING. DAN IS RETIRED ALSO, AT AGE 55 BUT HE DOES CONSULTING FOR NASA AND NOAA. DAN AND JOANNE ARE NOT SAILORS BUT THEY DO WHITE WATER CANOEING AND ARE VERY ACTIVE IN OUTDOOR SPORTS. THEY ARE QUICK LEARNERS AND JOANNE WILL BE GETTING OFF IN THE GALAPAGOS TO FLY HOME AND DAN WILL BE GOING THE WHOLE WAY WITH PAUL, LEE AND MYSELF.
I DON'T KNOW IF THIS IS OF ANY INTEREST TO ANYONE BUT THERE YOU HAVE IT ANYWAY. YOU CAN TRASH IT IF YOU WANT TO.
I HOPE THAT YOU HAD A GREAT TIME IN L.V. I THOUGHT JC WAS GOING TO GO. DID SHE? SHE WROTE TO SAY SHE SPENT 3-1/2 WATCHING THE COMPUTER TO SEE US TRANSIT AND THEN SHE SAW THE WRONG BOAT.
MORE TO FOLLOW AS SOON AS SOMETHING EXCITING HAPPENS.
LOVE, JAN
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 10:20:45 -0500
WE ARE CURRENTLY IN PANAMA CITY WORKING ON THE WATER MAKER. IT HAS A JAM UP SOMEPLACE BUT THE GUYS THINK THEY HAVE FOUND IT AND THAT WE WILL LEAVE THIS MORNING AFTER FUELING THE BOAT.
WE HAVE A PROTOTYPE THING ON BOARD THAT TELLS A MISSION CONTROL CENTER IN GREENBELT WHERE WE ARE AT ALL TIMES. MY DAUGHTER IS THE CFO FOR THE COMPANY AND SHE WILL DISTRIBUTE THE INFO TO ANYONE WHO WANTS IT.
YESTERDAY WE SPENT THE WHOLE DAY PROVISIONING AND TRYING TO FIND PLACES TO STORE FOOD. WE HAVE HAMOCKS HANGING EVERYWHERE. I WILL TAKE PHOTOS OF IT.
Lee and Jan
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 14:19:47 -0500
We're going through the Canal at around 4:00PM (eastern time). Time accuracy not guaranteed. You can see us on a live web cam at the Panama Canal website as we go thru.WWW.PANCANAL.COM/ENG/PHOTO/CAMERA-JAVA.HTML.
Lee and Jan
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 17:37:30 -0500
WE HEARD THIS MORNING THAT WE WILL START OUR TRANSIT TOMORROW MORNING AT 6:30. THERE ARE 2 OPTIONS THAT WE HAVE NO CONTROL OVER.
ONE IS TO SPEND A NIGHT IN GATON LAKE, A FRESH WATER LAKE WHICH IS THE LARGEST MAN-MADE LAKE IN THE WORLD. THEY SAY YOU CAN SWIM IN THE LAKE IF YOU WATCH FOR CROCODILES. THE SECOND OPTION IS TO KEEP GOING WITHOUT STOPPING THEREFORE MAKING IT A ONE DAY TRANSIT. THE PILOT THAT WE WILL HAVE ON BOARD WILL MAKE THE DECISION FOR US, DEPENDING ON HOW THE TRANSIT IS GOING AND HOW THE BIG SHIPS EFFECT US. tHEREFORE, WE WILL PROBABLY BE IN MIRAFLORES LOCKS EITHER SUNDAY OR MONDAY, LATE AFTERNOON OR EVENING. I CAN LET YOU KNOW MORE AS WE GO. MIRAFLORES LOCKS IS WHERE THEY TELEVISE US ON THE CAM CORDER.
WE ARE GETTING VERY EXCITED ABOUT THE TRANSIT AND WE ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO LEAVING "BEAUTIFUL DOWNTOWN COLON"
HAVE A GREAT TIME IN VEGAS.
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 18:49:56 -0500
Today we went to an internet cafe and I saw what you have done for my web site. It is very impressive with all the pictures that you have come up with. Where did you get the other photos of a Bristol 45.5? (They came from the Bristol Yacht's Web Site) I loved all the pictures of the places we have been and you went to a lot of work to get the maps and chart our course. I have let you down on a few buttons. Especially about the crew. I have taken many photos of them but they have not been developed yet. I believe when we get to panama city i will be able to accomplish that task and i will send them to you telling you about each photo.
The photo of me is with my 35 year old son and my 6 year old grandson. It was taken in Curacao last month when they came down to stay on the boat with us.
Right now we are in colon, panama in the queue to go through the canal. we had to get an advisor and an agent who have done a whole lot of paper work and have let us know that they can only give us no more than a 12 hour notice as to when we go through. we are all ready to go and we just sit here and wait. i have been cooking a lot of meals that will go in the freezer, doing laundry and cleaning boat.
Colon has got to be the "arm pit" of panama. It is very dirty and poor. i have not seen any city as bad since we were in india. we are very eager to leave and two of our crew members have a flight to catch Apr. 2. and our new crew members arrive in panama city (at the other end of the canal) Apr. 1.
If you go to web cam WWW.PANCANAL.COM/ENG/PHOTO/CAMERA-JAVA.HTML, YOU CAN SEE ALL THE BOATS IN TRANSIT THROUGH THE CANAL. AS SOON AS I FIND OUT WHEN WE ARE GOING THROUGH I WILL LET YOU KNOW AND YOU CAN WATCH US COMPLETE THE LAST LEG OF THE TRANSIT LIVE IF YOU WANT TO.
MORE AS SOON AS I KNOW MORE......... LOVE, JAN
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 11:48:58 -0500
We arrived in the San Blas Isl. Sunday and anchored off an island called Hollandes. It is one of approx. 360 island in the area. Yesterday we spent the day swimming, snorkeling and walking the white sand beaches. It reminds me very much of the Bahamas without all the hundreds of Americans on boats that frequent the area. Two dug out wooden canoes came up to our boat, one with about 12 people, all one family ranging from ages of 1 to 50. The women are beautiful and are wearing traditional costumes but they don't like having their photos taken so we honored that. The are Kuna Indians and they make and sell molas which are beautifully embroidered and applique cloth pictures. We bargained and bought several pieces each.
Last night after dinner of meat loaf, home made bread and coleslaw, I spent hours swinging in the hammock looking at the stars.
We raised anchor at 4am this morning and are presently on our way to the canal. Our lat/lon is 9 degrees 37 min. N and 79 degrees 25 min. W.
We may have to wait for a couple of days before we can get into the canal because it is a popular place right now. We are all very excited to see what the experience will be.
Regarding my last e-mail. I am working with a new program and a totally new system so bear with me. When I went to the internet cafe the computer I was using was German and keyboard was totally different from ours. If I get another go at an internet cafe I will check my web page. Don't ask me how I got Hal's underwater photos. I don't even understand radio waves and how the sound travels through the air. Imagine that, when I am married to an electrical engineer.
More later. Love, Jan
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 17:07:38 -0500
We left Cartagena about 3pm yesterday and we are on a broad reach toward the San Blas Is. Our lat /lon is 10 degrees 14min. N and 77 degrees 10min W. We are on a starboard tack which means that every time I open a locker on the starboard side (galley and our head) everything comes flying out. The pleasures of sailing........! We have 11 knots of wind and we are doing 4.5 knots. Not exactly screaming along.
We loved Cartagena and I felt like I could spend at least 2 weeks there. I met a woman from the US on a boat who had been there for 4 mos. The restaurants are excellent and everything is cheap.
I made a pot of stew in my pressure cooker last night and no one felt like eating except Lee and I. It will be dinner tonight.
Not much else to write about as we just eat, sleep and read. I am reading the biography of Ben Franklin. He was a neat guy!
We did have a dolphin visit this morning. I think they like it when we run our generator because that is when they show up. We had 12 - 15 (hard to count) and there was a white baby dolphin amongst them.
Jerry, I am glad that you have gotten your boat ready to go. I heard on day that you couldn't get down the marina drive way and the next, you are all ready to go sailing. You are a fast guy.
When I told you that water temp was 89 degrees, I should have qualified it by saying that was in the marina and we don't make water in the marina for obvious reasons. The present water temp is 82 and in the cabin it is 84. I keep spraying myself with a water sprayer to keep cool.
We went to an internet cafe yesterday and I tried to find my web page that you have put together for me and I couldn't get there. Would you please tell me again exactly what I need to do. I did get to Hal Crosway's and his diving photos are fantastic. I will write to him and tell him how much I enjoyed them.
More tomorrow. Love to all of you. Love, Jan
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 15:46:55 -0500
We have been in Cartagena since Tues. the 18th. It is an amazing city and we love it. It reminds me a lot of Cusco, Peru with it's quaint narrow streets and very old architecture. The prices for everything is very low and shopping is lots of fun. We bought a hammock to hang from the mast to the head stay which has intricate knotted fringe on both sides and it cost approx. $30. The food here is wonderful and very reasonable. The city is clean and people are friendly. There is very little English spoken here so we are all muddling through with our limited Spanish.
The only complaint I have is that someone unzipped my backpack while I was wearing it and took my small coin purse that held my Visa card, driver's licence, and a few gilders from Curacao which amounted to about $1. I was wearing my backpack because I like to carry my camera there rather than around my neck. I have since locked it with a small pad lock which is "closing the barn door........etc" I had my wallet stolen from me in NYcity several years ago so I can't blame the city. Every city has it's bad guys.
We are leaving for the San Blas Islands tomorrow afternoon. I'm sorry that we can't spend more time here because it is such a wonderful place but our crew has a date for flying home that we are trying to meet.
Today we went to museums to learn about the 16th century history of this walled city. It was the second largest fortification after Havana at the time. The marina that we are staying in consists of an old fort and it is one of 4 or 5 in the city.
Today we listened to the BBC to hear that we are at war. I have mixed feelings about it because I don't want people to get killed but I can't think of any other alternative. I admire Bush for his persistence and I hope that it will be short and clean.
The winds have been light since we left Curacao. I think the most we saw was 12 knots but the first day the seas were savage. The boat continued to role from side to side. To open a locker meant that the contents would fly out. I was able to prepare meals only because I have a role of the rubber matting that keeps things in place. The second day the seas calmed and the there was no wind and we motored until we reached Cartagena.
It is very very hot here and with the motor giving off heat it was very uncomfortable down below. The water temp is 82 degrees. I will continue to give you lat/longs but not for Cartagena because you can find it on any decent map.
I was working hard while we were underway but not so much now. We eat breakfast on the boat and go to very nice restaurants for lunch and dinner. I am slowly getting rid of all the quarry dust that we collected for so long while the boat was in Curacao and down wind from an active stone quarry. Dust in everything and everywhere. You cannot imagine all the place we have stowed food. We have made lists of each item and where it is located so that we can find it. When we use it we cross it off the list.
Yes, I am sleeping underway. I never have a problem in that dept. I love to sleep on the boat. I have NOT even been the least bit sea sick although the other woman with us was the first day out. She was fine after the seas calmed down. Yes, the water maker works very well . It works particularly well in warm water. We are getting 20 gal./hour. It is 11pm and I am ready to hit the bunk.
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 15:46:55 -0500
Our survival raft finally came at 10PM on Friday and we secured it to the boat and left at midnight. We are 64 hours out and our location is 11deg 33 min N and 74deg 35 min W. We plan to arrive at Cartagena, Columbia tomorrow around noon. We opted to skip Aruba because of our late start. The winds have been light but the first day the seas were very rolly and things were flying about. Now the seas are calm, there is little wind and we are under power. The crew is working well together and we are having a good time. I cook and clean so I don't have to do watches. The 4 others are doing 2 hour watches that rotate 1 hour each day. Usually during the day there is more than 1 person in the cockpit so even the person with that watch can take a nap or a shower.
Is this the kind of info you want me to write to you? I can tell you what I cooked if you would like and what books we are reading. We have the capability to listen to the BBC but haven't yet. It seems nobody cares what is going on in the world right now. We have our own little world. Yesterday we saw several dolphins off our bow and we have had flying fish by the 10s and 20s landing on our deck and dying at night.
I will take a picture of each crew member, give you a little biography of each and mail it from Cartagena. Word by the grapevine of sailors is that Caragena is the only safe place to go in Columbia. There are 2 marinas there and like my daughter said, she has never heard of a Caragena Cartel. We were buzzed by a US Navy plane that had a large disk on top which we guess is an antenna of some sort. We were also circled by a Dutch helicopter the first day out. I presume they are getting the name of our boat for their drug prevention programs.
Right now it is very hot with the engine going and I am wearing my bathing suit which I periodically get wet in the shower. I would be happy if we stopped the boat and I jumped overboard for a little swim but the crew nixed that.
I have invented an automatic dish washer on board. I spray the dirty dishes with a diluted mix of Joy and water and place them in a net bag which we tie to a line and drag over board. The salt water is a terrific cleaning agent and all I have to do is a quick rinse with fresh water and I'm done.
More later. Love, Jan
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 06:54:52 -0500 (EST)
We are still waiting for our 6 man survival raft which "was at the airport" for the past week but not delivered to us. It turns out that the airport is in St. Martin not here and there is only 1 plane a day coming from that island and they are all full and can't bring raft. We have been promised to have it delivered tonight after 10 pm and the guys plan to mount it and then we will leave. That will put us leaving around midnight. We will get a pilot to lead us out of the channel into the ocean because it is a difficult task in the dark.
More later.
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2003 07:21:07 -0500 (EST)
Got good news today. Lee said that I don't have to do watches because I am the cook. YIPPEEEEEE !
Got to go fix breakfast now. Bye
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2003 23:38:56 -0500 (EST)
I hope that we will be leaving in a week. We talked to a couple this afternoon who are heading on the same route as we are and they heard on the SSB radio that it was blowing 40 knots between Cartagena and the San Blas Islands which is where we plan to go. Today we had gust of 24 knots here which is certainly doable but I would prefer less so that the seas would lie down.
As what food I am going to buy? It will be mostly dried and canned fruits. Canned meats. Frozen vegetables. Meats to freeze. Chicken of the Sea tuna and salmon in alum. bags instead of cans. Lots of ginger snaps and ginger ale for upset stomachs and crackers and nuts to munch on especially during watches. I have a bread maker so we will have fresh bread every day. It makes a small loaf that serves four or five people.
We will do 3 hour watches. They aren't bad because we have the auto pilot and radar so we just sit there and watch to see that they both are doing their job and that there are no other boats in sight.
If we come across a freighter or cruise ship we get on the VHF and make sure that the Capt. knows that we are there. Often they don't speak English but they understand lat/long. They should have us on their radar but sometimes those guys go to sleep and run on auto. Hard to believe but true.
More later. Love, Jan
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